I was up on Cloggy on Sunday having a ‘rest day’ after fruitless attempts on Mission Impossible the day before. I had set myself the goal on Mission of getting the size 0 cam in the slot and getting to the crux lock-off, so actually, ignoring James’ ascent, I reached my goal!
Well done to James for cruising what is a very hard route. In my opinion (and I know James and Pete both think F8a+) this route is F8b and the gear is adequate but still a little scary.
I think James’ fast ascent of this route, coupled with Pete Robins’ ascent of Silk Cut (Font 8B+) and his attempts on Liquid Ambar (F8c/+) marks a real rise in physical standards amongst our little group of North Wales climbers. Unfortunately I am unable to keep up!!
Anyway, Cloggy was amazing, we climbed The Boldest and Mordor and had a great time.
Whilst onsighting The Boldest (E4 5c), I tried to imagine what it would be like to onsight The Indian Face (E9 6c). Slabby, green climbing, no gear and very complex moves leading you in to blind alleys. Anyway I soon started to shit my pants, so I stopped thinking about that and carried on with the 5c moves on The Boldest! Much better!
The Indian Face – in the words of Johnny Dawes – “A real trouser filler!”