Not too much to report over the last month, I have been climbing a fair bit and keeping my finger nicely tweaked, in my build up to the big trip in September.
The most interesting thing in terms of local climbing was the quality E4 on the Orme: Tales of Future Past, a great addition from Mark Leach and another UK soft touch at the grade… (not).
Try some F7c climbing with crunchy rock and spacey gear (and rusty pegs) – now we are talking! And it deserves no stars too, even better.
I think that this ranks as one of the toughest E4’s in the UK, I’d be interested to hear of any tougher ones.
A bag of crisps offered for an onsight flash, no reversing to the floor, no pre-placed kit!
Here is a photo of Tim ‘the best dressed climber in Wales’ seconding Gritstone Gorilla (E3) just to the side of the E4.
BIG NEWS: The really big news is Caff and Ben’s ascent of The Petit route on the Grand Cap. I have climbed a fair bit on this mighty wall, ticking the classics such as the Swiss route, the Bonatti route and the Voyages de Gulliver, and other things up to around E5. It is a superb bit of rock and what these two legends have done here is a truly world class ascent.
I’ll be covering it more on UKC as I am impressed.
Caff as ever is nails! This was his first trip to the Alps! You go girl!
Email: Jack.geldard ( at) gmail.com