My impending trip to the high mountains (Peak 41 Expedition) is looming fast. In between frantic organisation for this trip and working hard on UKClimbing.com (check out this interview with Chris Sharma) I have also been trying to realise a long-held rock climbing ambition of redpointing a hard sport route.
This has come as a bit of a last minute shock really, as I had just planned to cruise on some classic routes, but I guess due to a high volume of climbing at a moderate to high-ish (8a/+) level, and a lack of injury, I have inadvertently hit some reasonable climbing form. Although raw power is still pretty low.
Anyway this now leaves me 9 days in which to tick a project, giving me probably 3 climbing days. Not very long! ARGH!
To aid in success I have quickly tried a few different routes, and found one that suits my lanky frame, preference for crimps over pockets, and one that is in constant shade, meaning I won’t be thwarted by high temperatures. Most importantly though, the route is in an idyllic spot, a peaceful mountain paradise, and it really is a joy to go back there, which is why I am so keen. At this stage in my climbing life, it’s not about ‘the scene’, it’s not about hanging with the cool kids, it’s about quiet places, beautiful pieces of rock, and as always, trying to get better than James McHaffie. Best get back on the finger board.
For more photos of Salvan – have a look here at my post from last year.
It’s all systems go with the Himalaya trip though, with emails pinging back and forth, a huge pile of equipment mounting at Rob’s house and pre-trip nerves setting in big style.
The last few weeks have been a lot of fun though – and I am really looking forward to the trip.
This is the North Face of Peak 41, the face that Rob and I are aiming for next month. Unfortunately for me, it isn’t a very steep wall of granite with hard moves between slopey crimps.
And one last thing in this disjointed blog post. Well done to James on his ascent of The Long Hope Route main pitch. Very good effort McChav!
Email: Jack.geldard ( at) gmail.com