It has been a busy summer. Not one with hard rock climbing, but with hard work!
I’m not shy of a bit of hard work though. So, this summer I have mostly mixed work, house renovations and running.
Climbing has been a write-off really, for two reasons.
1: Time. Climbing is really, really time consuming. Especially alpine climbing. I haven’t had enough time to pursue the sport to the level at which I am used to, so the easiest thing in my mind was to take a break completely. This has served two purposes, it has freed up my time to concentrate on other things, and it has freed up my body to recover from climbing. It seems to have worked, and also completely rekindled a burning desire to climb, which is fantastic. After twenty years of climbing I can occasionally feel the psyche waning. It’s good to get it back.
2: Ego. This year has been tough climbing-wise for me. After a trip to the Himalaya in the autumn, then a big break from climbing due to an epic ski year, the spring came and my arms were not quite what I was hoping for. It was a slow dredge back to fitness (which never really came good) and then when I had only limited time to climb, the level didn’t increase. All I can say is that my ego took a pounding when I was finding routes at my normal onsight level to be too hard to redpoint! Interesting stuff.
So, I have been doing a little bit of running, including the Tour Des Fiz (30km, 2500m height gain – 5hours 40mins) and the running section of the Mont Blanc triathlon (10km 37mins 37 secs.), but I have done both these off the couch, with not really any time to train. The difference with running is that I have no expectations to perform well, so it is very stress free for me as a sport. It has been a good change of scene and also a good bit of cross training for my trip to Patagonia this winter. I’m going to keep up a little bit of running all autumn.
The scorching heat of summer has passed now, meaning better climbing conditions. Hopefully all my house renovations will be done in a month, so that means it is time to climb. Realistically I don’t have a high enough base level or enough time to get the sport climbing back in to the high 8s this year, but focusing on some alpine faces would be excellent preparation for Patagonia, and is the most sensible thing to do… bring on the sport climbing then! 😉
Email: Jack.geldard ( at) gmail.com