Jack GeldardJack Geldard
  • Home
  • Blog
  • About Me
  • Journalism
  • Guiding
  • Video
  • Feature Articles

What seventeen years of experience has taught me

June 6, 2010jackgeldardBlog1 comment

Earlier today I was browsing the Start Here section of UKClimbing.com, which is where we have loads of Frequently Asked Questions articles, beginners articles, instructional stuff, etc.

I was actually looking to see how well we have covered ‘Setting up a belay’ – as this is pretty vital for many climbers in the UK and is something that I think should be fairly prominent on that part of the website.

I found we had this article from Libby Peter, but I also think we should perhaps have a more in depth piece on this belay set up.

Anyway, I also stumbled across this article from 2003 by Charles Arthur: 100 things you learn from experience.

And whilst I didn’t learn anything from the article, the title got me thinking; ‘actually, I know a hell of a lot more about climbing now than I did when I first started’. But can I point out exactly what these things are?

I have tried to think of a few, but it isn’t easy. So here are some things that I have learnt over time.

Trad climbing:

  • Some hard ‘trad’ routes are easier than some ‘easy’ trad routes. Some routes are just way more ‘climbable’ than others and this often has nothing to do with grade.
  • Well travelled, clean, chalked trad routes can feel much easier than seldom climbed routes of the same grade.
  • Seating in your wires with a stiff tug can save your life. Especially if you use short, stiff quickdraws that can lead to your wires being lifted out by the rope.
  • Long, floppy quickdraws are usually best (see previous point).
  • Double ropes are basically twice as good as single ropes – in almost every circumstance. Use doubles. If you can’t belay with double ropes, then learn. If you can’t learn – trad climbing isn’t for you.
  • E3 climbers can usually climb E7 if they try.
  • Crack climbing seems to get easier the older you get.
  • There is a massive difference between routes on which you can die and routes on which you just get a bit scared. This becomes more apparent when you reach 25.

Sport climbing:

  • Short, stiff quickdraws are best.
  • But take a few long ones so you can extend key bolts to avoid rope drag.
  • It’s harder than trad climbing.
  • It becomes ever more appealing as you approach 30 years old.
  • 4 days on a route isn’t very long.
  • Falling off can still feel scary, but you can also ‘redpoint’ falls. The more times you fall from a route the less scary it becomes.
  • I don’t really see much difference between steep trad climbing on reasonable gear and sport climbing.

General climbing:

  • Footholds don’t have to look like they are going to work to actually work.
  • Sometimes you need to pull harder/squeeze harder/push harder then it feels like you need to, to be able to do a move. This is hard to explain, but for example, don’t just stand on the hold, shove down on it hard with your leg muscles.
  • Climbing well is often about your mindset. This can be massively affected by the people you climb with. Choose them carefully.
  • Conditions really do make a huge difference, adding several grades if they are bad.
  • Finger skin makes a huge difference – just like conditions.

Big wall / Alpine climbing:

  • Yes it might be 5 grades below your hardest send on <insert name of local 12m high crag here>, but after 12 hours in the boiling sun with skinned fingers and feet that are on fire, it might feel quite tricky. See note in general climbing about conditions.
  • ‘Leading in blocks’ doesn’t really do anything.
  • Climbing fast is all about mindset. “Just climb faster”. Maintain that feeling (like the one when you are trying to drive to work but know you are late) whilst you are climbing, and keep that feeling going until the belay is set up and your second is climbing. Then relax, because in 10mins you will have to do it all again.
  • If you want to free climb hard on big walls, then look after your feet. It has taken me many trips to get a shoes system that works for me, but I have cracked it:

Firstly I take a pair of approach shoes I can climb in, and I use them for approaches, any scrambling, easy pitches and some wide cracks. I also take 3 pairs of fairly stiff shoes on the trip.

One pair I take is my usual UK ‘hard routes’ pair – tight and for general hard climbing ( I have an even smaller pair for slate etc – but would never consider them for big walls!). I never wear these ‘hard routes’ shoes all day on big walls, but they come in for bouldering/sport days or very occasional crux stuff on big walls.

Next is my ‘big trad’ size, which is half a size bigger than my UK ‘sport routes’ size. These usually turn in to my ‘hard big free routes’ shoes and can be paired up with the approach shoes pretty well. It is important that they are stiff and not too old. As they are a bit bigger than I usually climb hard in, I really appreciate the extra stiffness and support. If I’m on a really hard route, with pitches that perhaps I think I might need to redpoint, then I carry my smaller ‘hard routes’ shoes on my harness.

I then take another pair that is half a size bigger again. I always stick with exactly the same model of shoe, but just in different sizes. These largest sized shoes feel too big for anything in the UK, but are great for really long routes with easier climbing. Or I just climb in approach shoes.

Right now I use Evolv Pontas Lace-Ups in a UK 9, 9.5 and 10

  • Carry a headtorch. No, I don’t care what you have just said. Carry a headtorch.
Tags: article, Articles / Words, big walls, climbing, experience, tips

Related Articles

PHOTOS: Winter turns to summer, a final ski and a visit from James

May 12, 2012jackgeldard

BLOG: Strongly sluffed and a smack in the ear

January 28, 2015jackgeldard

The BMC International Meet 2011

May 30, 2011jackgeldard

1 comment. Leave new

Tom
June 17, 2010 6:13 pm

Good knowledge on the shoes system- I’ve always used a ‘long-routes’ shoe in combination with something a bit more sensitive. The long-routes shoe always feels horrible! I’ll try the same model in different sizes.

I liked the comments re: climb-ability and condition of routes too.

Reply

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

Recent Posts

  • British Mountain Guide’s Scheme #6 Scottish Winter
  • British Mountain Guide’s Scheme #5 Summer Test
  • British Mountain Guide’s Scheme #4 Rock 1 Training
  • British Mountain Guide’s Scheme #3 Winter Induction
  • British Mountain Guide’s Scheme #2 Ski Induction

Recent Comments

  • Murph on BLOG: Finding Your Limits – Finding Yourself
  • Peter Neame on The Findlay-Geldard Route – Aiguille de Saussure – Mont Blanc du Tacul
  • New Geldard/Findlay Line on Aiguille De Saussure, Chamonix 7A/5.12A | EpicTV Climbing Daily, Ep. 237 | GripandClip on VIDEO: Alpine First Ascent with Hazel Findlay
  • jackgeldard on BLOG: Why Mountain Media is Important
  • Dom Bush on BLOG: Why Mountain Media is Important

Archives

  • April 2017
  • December 2016
  • May 2016
  • March 2016
  • January 2016
  • December 2015
  • January 2015
  • November 2014
  • October 2014
  • August 2014
  • May 2014
  • April 2014
  • March 2014
  • February 2014
  • January 2014
  • December 2013
  • October 2013
  • August 2013
  • March 2013
  • December 2012
  • November 2012
  • September 2012
  • August 2012
  • July 2012
  • June 2012
  • May 2012
  • April 2012
  • March 2012
  • January 2012
  • December 2011
  • November 2011
  • October 2011
  • September 2011
  • August 2011
  • July 2011
  • June 2011
  • May 2011
  • April 2011
  • March 2011
  • December 2010
  • November 2010
  • October 2010
  • September 2010
  • August 2010
  • July 2010
  • June 2010
  • May 2010
  • April 2010
  • March 2010
  • February 2010
  • January 2010
  • December 2009
  • November 2009
  • October 2009
  • September 2009
  • August 2009
  • July 2009
  • June 2009
  • May 2009
  • April 2009

Categories

  • Blog
  • Feature Article

Meta

  • Log in
  • Entries RSS
  • Comments RSS
  • WordPress.org

Contact Me:

Email: Jack.geldard ( at) gmail.com

  • Home
  • Blog
  • About Me
  • Journalism
  • Guiding
  • Video
  • Feature Articles
Copyright Jack Geldard Mountaineering 2015